The Festival of the Thrush – Montalcino, Italy

QUARTIERI – Neighborhoods of Montalcino, Italy

We travel to Montalcino, Italy, every year. Last year, we went late and arrived at the end of October. Our special little hilltop, medieval town was different. It was crowded, really crowded. We had arrived the last weekend of the month. It was time for The Festival of the Thrush – Sagra del Tordo! Thrush are migratory birds.

There was an audible buzz in the air. Not unpleasant. Activity was everywhere. Normally, this little village is quiet and easy to navigate. People linger in doorways and shops. Sit for a long time on benches. Cafes in the center square allow locals, and visitors, hours to linger over café and people watch. Not this trip. It’s easy to breathe here. You don’t hear English spoken. The tower rings it’s bells hourly – whether anyone’s listening or not. We didn’t hear them.

Montalcino is divided into four quarters (Quartieri). There are four discernable quarters – with colored flags and costumes representing each Quartieri. We have the good fortune to have discovered Hotel Giglio. The owners are Mario and Maria, along with their son, Michelle, his wife and a bunch of kids. Michelle speaks English well. They run a small hotel. It happens to be part of the “Travail” (Travaglio) Quartieri. Their “colors” are red and yellow. The crimson and mustard colored flags hang from flagpoles, literally, everywhere in their district. People wear scarves, headbands, jacket pocket squares of their quarter. They are fiercely loyal.

For the weekend, everyone in this neighborhood shows their distinct color. The other three Quarteri are Borghetto (white and red), Pianello (white and blue), Ruga (yellow and blue).

This festival began in 1957. Archers, from each section of the city, engage in a competition within their Quartieri to become the final four. Over a three-day weekend, they compete in events city-wide.
There’s a historical procession one afternoon in the shade of the ramparts of the fortress (Fortezza). On the field, the archers are called to the grass – representing their colors .The first four archers, one per quarter, and then the second four, and then the final two. Five arrows each – in succession of four – gradually increase the distance, and the best score wins, thus crowing a reigning neighborhood! The winning quarter sings songs of joy and mockery towards other neighborhoods. The joking, and poking fun, last through the winter.

The last day, Sunday, a King and Queen are crowned. There is a procession from their Quarteri headquarters, through the steep, winding, streets of Montalcino . The medieval, colorful costumes are worn by most Montalcinesi (locals). They proceed past the Church for a blessing by the priest and proceed to the banquet on the Piazza Popolo.

I mention the Hotel Giglio earlier because they were kind enough to explain the event to us, with patience, a glass of Brunello and some clarity. I am touched, even now, by their kindness – when we left, Maria, had gone to her Quartieri (at some difficulty) and obtained a Travaglio Quartierie silk scarf for me!

We’d like to visit the other Quartieri; but, how can we? We’re now part of Maria’s neighborhood.

photo and article by World Barrios Contributor: Lannie Thompson, Denver, Colorado

Resources:
Italy

Related Articles:
Sicily, Italy
The Beautiful Island of Sardinia
Tuscany, Italy A Land To Be Discovered

Need Ink to Print your Reports? SAVE up to 75% OFF today..

<Next Previous>